The best way to experience the site of Gallipoli is to visit it independently, not as part of an organised tour or on a commemorative occasion. Or so I decided after a trip there some years ago. My daughter and I were staying in Istanbul at a little hotel near the Blue Mosque. She wanted to visit, because she had been moved by Peter Weir’s film, but a day tour by tourist bus sounded a rushed and exhausting prospect. However, a helpful hotel desk clerk suggested we travel by ordinary bus and stay overnight at the little fishing village of…